Compliance
The garment crisis: Who done it?
Hameeda Hossain
LABOUR protests that spread from a sweater factory in Ghazipur on 11 May to Savar EPZ, Ashulia and Dhaka on 22 May, erupted in state violence and vandalism by 23 and 24 May. Police action against workers resulted in three deaths, many injured and even more arrested; the vandalism led to breakages, looting, closures and possible lay offs. Violence is never a satisfactory method of dispute resolution nor indeed does it indicate healthy labour relations.The industry’s immediate response was to allege instigation by political conspiracy or international competition. But to cry wolf evades an honest examination of industrial management in the knitwear and sweater components of the garment industry. Since the episode, many questions have been raised about the identity of the perpetrators of the carnage. The answer does not lie in merely apportioning blame to external actors or seeking hidden clues as in a thriller. The Home Minister has said that he had information, so he and his intelligence agencies should speak out and tell us who did what, and why the state agencies were not able to prevent the arson. It would be more credible, of course, to hold an open, public enquiry with representatives of the Labour Directorate, BGMEA and BKMEA, workers and even organisations who support workers’ rights. The report should be made public as soon as possible to put an end to unnecessary rumours and allegations.
Understandably the factory management is shocked, because it is not used to seeing labour unrest turn so violent. It did not expect such an outburst from a docile, expendable labour force. Another reason given is that the factories where the trouble occurred were relatively well run, “model factories” where workers were fairly well paid. The comparative advantage of some factories is of course no guarantee that workers will not agitate against glowing disparities between management and labour. On the contrary increasing awareness of inequalities is a direct provocation. We should remember how a few years ago, well paid workers in South Korea launched a massive protest against their company bosses.
For the industry it is more important to come to terms with its systemic problems of which there are many. For the moment it has weathered the international competition and in fact received a glut of knitwear and sweater orders which it finds difficult to deal with. Many of the problems such as delays caused by lead time delays, late deliveries of imported raw materials, licencing or production, due to outage failures, port obstruction, etc. are caused by government inefficiency and poor planning. These may appear intractable, but are not beyond solution.
But what is of the industry’s own making is its refusal to reconcile its commercial success with poor labour relations, and its tendency to dismiss labour demands with unkept promises. For several years now workers have repeated vital demands pertaining to their terms of work and their conditions of work. Their major points of discontent have included the lack of an employment letter or contractual agreements, a stagnant minimum wage set in 1994 at Tk 930.00, arbitrary fixing of overtime payments, delayed payments, absence of weekly holidays, and non-enforcement of safety and health protection.
Conditions are even harder in the sweater and knitwear components because seasonal demand makes for insecurity of employment, to long hours of work without leave, which practically leads to compulsory overtime; piece rated work leads to uncertainties as to how much each worker will receive, since the rates are not fixed until the completion of the consignment. When the owners proudly say that piece rate payment brings in higher returns at an average of Tk 7,000.00, the highest range being Tk 18,000.00, this conceals considerable disparity in payments between one worker and another, with a few reaching the ceiling but many more falling way below a living wage. Workers’ earnings have failed to keep pace with the index of prices, and most live in a state of continuous debt, in order to support their families.
Media attention on the recent episode has led to much breast beating interspersed with some rational debate on the state of the industry. Newspaper reports and statements by business leaders suggest that they may now be willing to recognise genuine labour problems: for example at a sitting with the commerce ministry and workers’ representatives last week, BGMEA and BKMEA are reported to have conceded the need to revise pay scales, to issue employment letters, not to enforce overtime. The question of safety conditions was also raised. A few leaders have also admitted the logic of introducing negotiating mechanisms, whether through trade unions or some other arrangement is not clear. The absence of a grievance redress mechanism is precisely what allows the fuse to blow.
If these concessions are to be more than a reflex to shock therapy, serious attention has to be paid right away to setting up a Wage Board to assess living wage in each sector, contractual terms for overtime, hours of work, maternity leave. Safety has become an important consideration particularly after the disasters of Spectrum and KTS, and it is no longer sufficient for BGMEA or BKMEA to make vague promises without introducing strict regulatory mechanisms. They must make their reports on defaulting industries public, for both the workers and the public have a right to know the risks they take. The government regulatory agencies have been even more culpable because time and again they have defaulted on their responsibilities to supervise and regulate violations of the laws. This has happened in spite of directions by the Appellate Division.
Garment manufacturers claim they are now compliant with buyers’ conditions. This may go some way towards improving working conditions, but only to the extent that it satisfies buyers. Last year, at a UNDP sponsored meeting two task forces were set up by the government, the first to ensure proper labour conditions and the second to ensure safety conditions. What has become of the decisions taken by these task forces? Workers have a right to know the time line for their implementation.
Rather than piece meal measures it is important at this stage to move towards a more effective industrial management based on progressive labour relations and labour participation in management. The culture of military management, where security guards have little hesitation at drawing their guns on workers (as happened in Chowdhury Garments, or in Opex Garments a year or two ago), or managers have no compunction at slapping their workers in full public view is now passe. It will not lead to a healthy industry, on the contrary it will provoke spontaneous, unorganised and, therefore, chaotic protests. Many experts suggest that the time is right for the garments to institutionalise a corporate structure with corporate social responsibility that can allow for a grievance redress mechanism. Suggestions have also been made for workers to be given a stake in the industry, in its management, through participation in trade unions.
Perhaps this shock therapy will enable the garment owners to sit across with industrial economists, with lawyers, with workers and other experts to recommend reform of archaic laws or revise policies and practices that belong to a past world. It is time we stopped our detective search for “who done it” to a rational appraisal of how we can establish acceptable labour standards in the industry.
Hameeda Hossain is Convener of the Shromik Nirapotta Forum.
86 Comments Add your own
Leave a Comment
Some HTML allowed:
<a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <pre> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>
Trackback this post | Subscribe to the comments via RSS Feed
1.
Leo Pharmacy | February 3, 2007 at 3:48 pm
What is meant health protection? It is necessary to increase deductions from the budget in free-of-charge medical clinics. WBR LeoP
2.
murad | October 13, 2007 at 8:47 am
what is complience
3.
Md. Riazul Hoque | November 4, 2009 at 5:25 am
What should the main COC aspects of Bangladesh?? As we know the Bangladesh Labor law and ILO sometimes conflict each other again on the other hand the buyers COC also sometimes conflict with our local law…. in that case what should be the best COC for our garments sector ???
Manager, Social and Technical Compliance
4.
Manir | January 12, 2008 at 6:34 am
Hay
I want to know about garments compliance and what is the main responsibility of a compliance officer.
5.
Prince Group | February 6, 2008 at 11:35 am
I want to know about garments compliance and what is the main responsibility of a compliance officer & Management..
6.
Md. Mizanur Rahman | September 27, 2009 at 3:19 am
Complience in Bangladesh & Main responsibilities of Complience Manager .
Md. Mizanur Rahman
Manager ( Admin & HR)
Ananda Shipyard & Slipwyas Ltd.
7.
Md. Anamul Huq | February 11, 2008 at 3:15 am
Firstly, I want to know what is compliance? how does it prroced easyl.what is meant health protection? It is necessary to increase deductions from the budget in free-of-charge medical clinics.v
8.
niloy | March 3, 2008 at 6:08 am
Dear Madam… I need to talk about Code of Conduct audit, How to become an Auditor? Can u help(01914883536).
9.
azam khan | March 7, 2008 at 5:21 am
I am training compliance
10.
azam khan helal | March 7, 2008 at 5:28 am
I have interstad compliance traning program
11.
afak ahamed | March 12, 2008 at 1:01 pm
I want to know what is the responsibilities of a compliance officer.
12.
afak ahamed | March 12, 2008 at 1:02 pm
i want to know what is main responsibilities of a compliance officer.
13.
monir ahmed | May 17, 2008 at 5:22 pm
i want to know what is main responsibilities of a compliance officer.
14.
Md. Akhtaruzzaman | June 2, 2008 at 5:37 pm
I have got a lot of Idea about Garments Sector. Now I want to know about the yarly progress of this sentor from 2000-2008
Thanks
15.
Muhammed Anamul Huq | June 18, 2008 at 12:34 pm
I am Audit manager of Europa Apparels Ltd. Now I want to Evaluated our factory Wal mart. How can I Evaluated our factory by wal mart. This is my contract number 01912936500, 01712979675
Bye
Md Anamul Huq
16.
Apollo | June 28, 2008 at 8:59 am
Hello,
What extent Garments follow te compliance regarding labour law.
Cheers.
17.
Apollo | June 28, 2008 at 9:01 am
Hello
What should know regarding maintaining compliance in RMG.
Thks.
18.
Apollo | June 28, 2008 at 9:03 am
Hello
What should know regarding maintaining compliance in RMG.
Thks.
19.
Ashrafee | July 5, 2008 at 4:24 am
I want to what is the rules and regulation of compliance
20.
siraz | July 5, 2008 at 4:07 pm
I want to what is the rules and regulation of compliance
21.
siraz | July 5, 2008 at 4:12 pm
i have a screenprint and embrodiery factory , how i want to compliance my factory ?
22.
Nadim Ahmad Daulati | July 8, 2008 at 7:40 am
I want to know, how will I grade workers?
Should it be based on amount of salary or his or her designation?
And in some case the designation factory is using is not find in the gazzat.
Looking for your valuable comments.
Regards
23.
AZAD | July 12, 2008 at 12:14 pm
i want to know what is main responsibilities of a compliance officer
24.
IBNUL HASAN | July 14, 2008 at 2:19 pm
i want to know what is main responsibilities of a compliance officer
And at the same time How to become an Auditor?
25.
Arafat Ferdaus | July 19, 2008 at 6:09 am
Dear madam
We are alrady WRAP certified Garments(Radix limited). Now we have to Renew our certificate. What is the next Procidure .
Best Regards
Arafat
Cel l: 01716205995
26.
Zahid Hasan sumon | July 24, 2008 at 4:21 am
i want to know what is main responsibilities of a compliance officer.
27.
Akther Kamal | August 10, 2008 at 12:08 pm
Madam
Plz let me know about various sign of compliance used in the factory floor.
thanx.
28.
S.M.Noor-A-Alam Siddique | August 18, 2008 at 8:31 am
I want to total compliance in Textiles Sector in Bangladesh.
29.
Mainul Islam Chowdhury | August 31, 2008 at 9:01 am
I want to tacticks of compliance audit in garments factory
30.
M.M. Rahman Parag | September 6, 2008 at 2:17 pm
i want to know how to become an compliance Auditor?
31.
Sumon | September 17, 2008 at 9:30 am
I want to know about garments compliance and what is the main responsibility of a compliance officer & Management..
Plz let me know about various sign of compliance used in the factory floor.
32.
Yea Hia | October 17, 2008 at 7:37 am
Please give me
Following
01. the main jobs respon. of a compliance officer in germants.
02.Various sign of compliance used in a factory floor.
33.
Jahirul islam | October 25, 2008 at 12:18 pm
Please give me
Following
01. the main jobs respon. of a compliance officer in germants.
02.Various sign of compliance used in a factory floor.
34.
akhter hossain | November 6, 2008 at 5:32 pm
I want know about the rule of garments compliance.
35.
akhter hossain | November 6, 2008 at 5:34 pm
rule of garments compliance.
36.
Sultan Mohammed Alam | November 9, 2008 at 10:29 am
Please give me
Following
01. the main jobs respon. of a compliance officer in germants.
02.Various sign of compliance used in a factory floor.
03. Responsibility of a merchandiser.
37.
Kazi Shamsul Alam Deepu | November 9, 2008 at 10:51 am
Which are the top five hi risk compliance violation?
Kazi Shamsul Alam Deepu
ksadeepu@yahoo.com
01819-151033
38.
amy pasculado | November 18, 2008 at 2:33 pm
hi ,
may i have the list of walmart approved garments factory in bangaldesh.
pls send the list to my email add
39.
biplab das | November 24, 2008 at 5:55 am
i want to know what r the compliences provided for garment
40.
Abdullah Al Mamun Russell | November 26, 2008 at 11:47 am
Hi this’s Russell is a compliance officer of Group of company . i m also hesited about compliance rules. because compliance based on buyer requirements. i can’t find a complicated compliance rules from my boss. he can’t find from his boss one from another….. and many man many mind… and many buyer many require. no similarity on sgs and its. c&a and Wall mart.
41.
mamunur rahman | January 13, 2009 at 9:27 pm
i want to be a merchandiser & i want to know about this career.
42.
Md. Yea Hia | February 15, 2009 at 6:45 am
I am a HR & Compliance Officer in a garments.
43.
Md. Abu Jafar | February 15, 2009 at 6:47 am
I am a admin Officer in garments. so i need to be a compliance officer. please inform me
44.
Mohammad Ashraful Alam | February 17, 2009 at 12:55 pm
I am Manager (HR & Compliance) in garments. Communicating with buyers and getting the factory approved during vendor evaluation. Should be able to understand the needs of buyers and act as a bridge between buyers & the Management.
45.
Md. Taufiqur rahman (SMUCT) | February 17, 2009 at 5:39 pm
I am student of SMUCT. I want to know, how much compliance Garments factory in our country?
46.
liton | February 25, 2009 at 6:57 pm
I want to know about garments compliance and what is the main responsibility of a compliance officer & Management..
47.
liton | February 25, 2009 at 6:59 pm
what is complaince?
48.
Yea Hia | March 22, 2009 at 8:29 am
I need compliance officer respnsablities. 01912029211
49.
noor uddin | March 24, 2009 at 6:13 am
I need compliance officer respnsablities. 0088-01819-349349
50.
noor uddin | March 24, 2009 at 6:16 am
comoliance all roll send my e-mail
51.
arafat | March 24, 2009 at 6:49 pm
what is garments compliance.what are the main responsibilities of a compliance officer.
52.
Tapit | March 29, 2009 at 3:49 am
I m serving as a admin officr in one of the pioneer group of company. I wanna know actual future of compliance .
53.
Murad kabir | April 21, 2009 at 6:59 am
I didn’t get any clear idea from this ……. about compliance have to clear idea/concept on compliance.. Pls help ..
54.
naznin | May 11, 2009 at 11:14 am
when a lady compliance officer being harass by Higher Management ,is it possible to stay safe for a worker( Lady ) ? is it not violation for compliant factory ? please help to stop it.
55.
naznin | May 11, 2009 at 11:16 am
how possible to stop it .
56.
dabi | May 13, 2009 at 10:51 am
i want proper punishment who act like miscreant in garments factory .
57.
Md.Hannan Sardar | May 26, 2009 at 1:28 pm
What is compliance of Garments & about compliance
58.
Md.Hannan Sardar | May 26, 2009 at 1:30 pm
What are position of compliance officer in admin
59.
Md.Hannan Sardar | May 26, 2009 at 1:33 pm
I need compliance officer of gamrments
60.
Md.Hannan Sardar | May 26, 2009 at 1:35 pm
compliance officer is injoyable job
61.
Md. Mukul Khan | May 29, 2009 at 4:47 am
Hi, I’m a Compliance Officer & HR of Composite Group. I think compliance is must essential for our country. Because day by day we are developed this sector. So, properly without Compliance it not possible .So, as soon as possible compliance must be need in our industrial sight.
62.
Md. Nahid Absar | June 3, 2009 at 5:15 am
I’m a Corporate Lawyer. I want to know what sort of compliances (labour related) do the gamrment & textile industires have to accomlish in order to satisfy the buyers from UK, USA and Canada. I would also like to know whether there is any new proposal going to be implented in this reagard from UNDP, ILO or GOB or any organisation working on this segment.
It would be highly appreciable if i get the answers of my queries with relevant reference(s).
Thanking you
Md. Nahid Absar
LL.B (Hons), LL.M
63.
sujan Kumar Saha | June 4, 2009 at 6:48 am
what is compliance responsibility?
64.
Abdul Mottaleb | June 13, 2009 at 5:05 am
What’s the implecation of OHSAS certification in RMG sector
65.
samiul | June 26, 2009 at 7:59 am
i want to no abt all comliance officer information…..can u help me????
66.
Mehedi Hasan | June 28, 2009 at 11:22 am
we have should maintain fully compliance in GMT for Bangladesh development.so pls. maintain it
67.
Md. Atiqur Rahman | June 30, 2009 at 3:54 am
I want to know wall-mart Evaluation Prosedurs.
WRAP Certification procedurs.
68.
Md. Atiqur Rahman | June 30, 2009 at 3:57 am
I want to know Wall- Mart Evaluation prosedurs.
WRAp Certification Procedurs .
69.
Mehedi hasan | July 1, 2009 at 6:37 am
Pls. save compliance related garments sector in bangladesh. some country is hardly trying to distroy of our garments sector. so kick out them.
70.
Mehedi hasan | July 1, 2009 at 6:42 am
why Bangladesh Govornment does not action corrupted people/ farm who are the maker of indiscipline situation?
71.
MOSIUR | July 2, 2009 at 5:51 am
DEAR MADAM
HOW ARE YOU?
I WANT TO KNOW WHAT IS THE RESPONSIBILITY OF A COMPLIANCE OFFICER. WHAT SHUOLD SHE / HE DO?
PLS GIVE ME DETAILS AS YOUR KIND RESPONSIBILITY AND COOPERATION
THANKS AND REGARDS
MOSIUR
72.
MOSIUR | July 2, 2009 at 6:02 am
HOW CAN I CONTACT WITH YOU? DISCUSED ABOUT COMP & HRD
73.
MOSIUR | July 3, 2009 at 5:10 am
hi
thanks for you cooperation
let me khow how can be a good compliance officer
now i am working in a garments industries as a executive admin
thanks
74.
MOSIUR | July 3, 2009 at 5:16 am
hi
IF I want to meet with you
pls tell me how can i contact with you
thanks
75.
Mominul islam | July 7, 2009 at 10:48 am
Hi,
pls. tell me what is compliance. and actual feature of a compliance officer.
thank you.
76.
MEER TASADDEQUE ALI | July 8, 2009 at 3:26 am
I AM A COMPLIANCE MANAGER OF ONE OF THE RENOUND EXPORT ORIENTED FACTORIES IN BANGLADESH. WHICH IS DOING BUSINESS SINCE 1983 .WE HAVE NO ANY CRITICAL ISSUES FROM VERY BIGINNING IN OUR FACTORIES AND THERE IS NO WORKERS AGITATION IN OUR FACTORIES.OUR WORKERS ARE WORKING WITH VERY PEACEFULY. OUR MANAGEMENT GIVING A LARGE AMOUNT OF GIFT HAMPARED TO THE WORKERS IN EVERY EID FASTIVALIN CLUDING ALL FACILITIES AS PER LABOUR LAW BUT WHY WE ARE NOT HIGHLIGHTINGS AS A COMPLIANED FACTORIES IN BANGLADESH (THIS IS MY PAIN)
77.
AMIN | July 19, 2009 at 8:00 am
In a part of Garments Compliance. Payroll of all kind Labourer is a vital part i.e. giving paysleep, salary sheet, overtime, tiffin, attend bonus and all other benifits of Labourer accommoded in a computer system (software) in both Bangla and English Verson. The system is 100% proven. To install the software you need to talk to me.
Only Needful person contact;
Amin
0171-3375753
78.
Tania Deena | September 11, 2009 at 5:56 am
Madam,
I AM WORKING A COMPLIANCE FACTORY AS COMPLIANCE MANAGER.CAN YOU GIVE ABUSEMENT POLICY(BANGLA) .
TANIA
79.
Faruque | July 26, 2009 at 1:44 pm
Who sent the Comment No.75, Mr. Amin, Before starting Payroll Software learn first spelling of Pay Slip (NOT PAYSLEEP). And read your comments again.
Faruque
01715 340941
80.
khandhaker Jahidul islam Maruf | October 3, 2009 at 11:27 am
Dear all ,
We alrady started Bangldesh Garments Merchandiser Forum (BGMF). Pls send this message for your all closes Merchandiser .
Our website :
http://www.bgmf-2009.ning.com
best regards,
Kh.Jahidul Islam (Maruf)
President (BGMF)
Mob:01912185868
E-mail:jahid_nur@yahoo.com
81.
Roni Roy | October 12, 2009 at 4:41 am
I want to know what is the rules and regulation for maternity leave.
Pls can u send me.
82.
tuhin ahmed biswas | October 14, 2009 at 11:01 am
i am a compliance officer now i am working at mirpur. i want to course of compliance. what is better to me.
83.
tuhin ahmed biswas | October 14, 2009 at 11:05 am
thanks for you cooperation
let me khow how can be a good compliance officer
now i am working in a garments industries as a executive admin
thanks
84.
Mottaleb | October 21, 2009 at 11:20 am
Hi Mr. Tuhin,
You have to source for a job in compliance field. Many factories would like to requite fresh complaince officer. However, you can attend one day long bdjobs training on Labour Law 2006.
85.
Polash Kumar Saha | November 7, 2009 at 10:13 am
need its argent
86.
Mirza Golam Hafiz | November 20, 2009 at 7:24 am
I am Admin Officer in Shasha Garments Ltd. I try to my Factory developed in complaience and H&R .So I wants to know about some advice about complaince.
01670110236